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Home > Entertainment > Economy - Frightful; Food - Delightful
The cuisine of PassionFish represents the bounty of the world's oceans, lakes, seas, and waterways reflecting the flavors and natural resources of the Mediterranean, Europe, Asia, and the Americas. Times-Mirror Staff Photo/Shamus Ian Fatzinger

Economy - Frightful; Food - Delightful

Indulge: From haute cuisine to fries to go at local shopping centers: The economy may be suffering, but the lure of holiday shopping is impossible to ignore, with the festive decorations, bright lights, gigantic Christmas trees, excited kids waiting to talk to Santa, and of course, the tempting deals and specials as stores try to perk up sales.

And, as relief for tired feet and respite from the hustle and din of malls and shopping centers, there’s food. The area’s busiest shopping centers offer everything from fresh-brewed coffee and food courts with fast-food favorites to sit-down restaurants, some of which qualify as dining destinations -- even without the shopping.

Every year, the list of shopping-center destination dining spots grows. Many are offshoots of successful restaurants elsewhere, and most are within the moderate-to-expensive price range.


Tysons Corner

With the Tysons Corner expansion several years ago came Gordon Biersch Brewery, Brio Tuscan Grille and Coastal Flats, while Tysons Galleria boasts Legal Seafoods and Daily Grill, among others.


Fair Oaks

Fair Oaks houses the meat- and salad-lover destination Texas de Brazil, and The Cheesecake Factory.


Dulles, Reston

Dulles Town Center has Benihana and Vapiano, and Reston Town Center probably has the largest collection, including Clyde’s, Market Street Bar & Grill, Il Fornaio, and McCormick & Schmick’s.


PassionFish

Two newcomers to Reston Town Center have quickly established themselves. One, PassionFish, true to its name, specializes in seafood. The other, Mon Ami Gabi, describes itself as a “classic French bistro.”

The sleek, modern PassionFish is the latest creation of nationally acclaimed chef Jeff Tunks, whose DC Coast in the District is another must dining destination. Not surprisingly, the stars of PassionFish are seafood, and the preparation of fish and shellfish are drawn from cuisines around the globe -- the Mediterranean, Asia, Europe and the Americas.

The diverse menu starts with offerings from Japanese sushi to Peruvian ceviche. The spicy salmon roll with jalapenos for an extra kick is one place to start. If you prefer something tamer, the chilled Dungeness crab or poached lobster fits the bill.

You have numerous entree choices -- including chicken and beef if you are not a seafood lover. But for a treat, try the whole roasted Mediterranean bronzino, a type of bass, or the San Francisco Fisherman’s Wharf Cioppino, a memorable combination of seafoods cooked in a hearty, garlicky, tomato-based broth. Among the desserts, there’s a smooth Key lime meringue tart and a decadent chocolate mousse praline crunch, both with roots in the South.


Mon Ami Gabi

Next door at Mon Ami Gabi, you can imagine yourself in France. The slim, warm baguette that immediately arrives on your table is one indication, as is the rolling wine cart that offers selected French wines by the glass, an opportunity to sample. On the wall is a “plat du jour,” or daily special menu, a traditional bistro touch (for example, Friday features Dover sole, and Wednesday is braised short ribs.) But also pay attention to the menu and daily specials.

The specialty here is steak frites (steak with fries), with your choice of beef cut and sauce, accompanied by crisp, hand-cut fried potatoes. If you start with a steaming bowl of onion soup au gratin -- perfect for a brisk winter day – move on to oven-baked escargots de Bourgogne (snails), or a heaping bowl of mussels steamed in Calvados and cream. Top it off with a light, semi-sweet chocolate mousse or a cheese platter, and you’ll understand the lure of bistro cooking.

The rest of the menu and the daily specials show the breadth of bistro fare. Recent lunch specials featured smoked salmon, goat cheese and thin slices of cucumber and tomato on toast, or a classic quiche Lorraine.

As an added bonus, the wait staff is friendly and knowledgeable, which, together with the good food and fine wines, make Mon Ami Gabi a worthy dining destination.


Wildfire

Another newcomer that has quickly become a dining favorite is the almost year-old Wildfire, on the middle level of Tysons Galleria next to Macy’s. Well-established in Chicago, Wildfire brought a bit of nostalgia to Northern Virginia, a 1940s-style restaurant in both decor and background jazz, with a bit-of-everything menu aimed at pleasing everyone from big meat lovers to kids and those on gluten-free diets.

Wildfire is a steakhouse, so if you crave roast beef or a tender filet, take your pick. The meat is cooked to order, and the baby back ribs are excellent. If your tastes run elsewhere, try the roast chicken, tender and moist.

At lunch, the wild mushroom pizza is good enough to order an extra one to take home. At both lunch and dinner, the heaping bowl of chopped salad -- chopped roast chicken, tomatoes, avocado, bacon, scallions, and corn and tortilla chips is tossed with citrus vinaigrette that enhances but does not overwhelm the flavors. It's ample for two or a take-home portion.

Finally, if you can manage it, order (or split) the Wicked Wildfire Ice Cream Sandwich, an enormous concoction of fudge brownies, Snickers ice cream and caramel and hot fudge sauces that is true to its name. Don’t even try to guess the calories. Just indulge.



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